Walking the Roof of the World - My Everest Base Camp Trek: Part II
Hello hello, hope you’ve had a good week.
It’s only 3 weeks until I race the Istria 100 in Croatia, and the training has been going well, I’m starting to hit up to roughly 50 miles (80km) per week which is quite new to me and the leg are definitely feeling it. Hence why it’s important to really take your easy runs easy! I cannot stress this enough, I found that I actually had to skip my speed session last week due to the fatigue I had in my legs but also I competed in the Veterans Head of the River race (a rowing race that is the same course as the official Boat Race but in reverse) on the weekend. So, I needed to rest and save my energy for then, we finished 10th overall which was surprising as we only had one practice as crew, and I may have been slightly hungover. As always, no matter how many times I compete I always get nervous before the start of any race, but as soon as we start all that anxiety and over thinking just disappears and I am fully focused on the task at hand. Which brings me to the next part II of my Everest Base Camp Trek, the nerve wracking and one of the most dangerous flights in the world where I had a similar feeling.
Day 3: Flight from Kathmandu to Lukla
On the third day we were up reasonably early, around 5:30am to catch our flight at 7:30am. Nurbu, our Sherpa said the flight was weather dependant and conditions had to be perfect for us to fly to Lukla otherwise we could be waiting up 6 hours in the airport. Hence why we need to try and get the earliest flight out of Kathmandu. Our bags were packed the night before, so they were ready to be loaded onto the minivan, we also got given our pre-made breakfast box which had an apple and banana, two mini muffins, a bi=oiled egg and fruit juice box. Not what I was expecting, I was perhaps thinking of some sort of breakfast sandwich, but I thought it would do for now… until I got to the airport.
The journey to the airport only took 15 minutes but I guess that was because it was dead early in the morning. We arrived at the airport and Nurbu insisted we stuck close to him so we could get checked-in and through security as quick as possible. Now normally at airport it takes roughly half-an-hour to an hour to get through all of this but Nurbu using his persuasion and persistence manage to get us a priority passes for us to go through. And would you know it, we got through in less than 10 minutes! Once we were through, I immediately went to grab a coffee as I needed to fix my caffeine addiction. Nurbu said that the visibility was not great and so we just had to wait it out now but couldn’t say how long it was going to be. Luckily by 9am, roughly two hours since we were through to the duty-free section we were finally being called to our flight. A shuttle bus took us to our plane, and we got first glance at our plane… I could not believe how tiny this aircraft was. It was perhaps no bigger than a bus and could seat about 15 passengers, oh and it also had airhostess for a 30-minute flight! I was sat near the front, in the middle seat and could quite comfortably see out of both windows and was right up close to the cockpit, no more than a two meters away, I could literally see the pilots and the controls.
As we took off the whole plane started shaking, it felt ominous for things to come as you could feel every small twitch when the pilot was steering the plane. The turbulence was quite tense, I had to grab the empty seat in front of me and the guy next to me did the same thing. We both looked at each other laughed. Despite all the nerves of flying in a tin can you couldn’t help but be enthralled by it, the breath-taking views out of the plan window planes took my mind off things and we finally caught our first glimpse of the Himalayas. Twenty minutes passed and we were being told that we were coming into land at Lukla airport. Lukla airport has perhaps the smallest and most dangerous runway in the world. It was small target on the side of a cliff and had a gradual incline to help slow the planes down before it hit the wall! The pilot had to slow down enough not to miss the runway but also had to maintain the correct speed, so it didn’t dip below the runway and hit cliffside. And even if the pilot was successful in doing this as soon as the tyres hit the tarmac they had to reverse thrust and turn 90 degrees nearly straight away. Safe to say, he nailed the landing, it was some serious skill. Everyone applauded and cheered the pilot, think it was fair to say he deserved it.
Trek to Phakding (2,610m altitude)
We settled in Lukla for a short while to have Lunch (of course I had Dahl Baht) we met our second guide who was training to become a Sherpa. He was noticeably young, slightly shy but was wanting to make a good impression. He was very polite and smiled a lot, his Name was Nima. The plan was to trek from Lukla to Phakding, it would take us about 4-5 hours and was mainly downhill. We had two porters carry our gear from village to village all the way to Everest Base Camp. Being a porter is seen as being a noble service and they were superhumans. They could carry up to 100kg of gear and travel the same distance as us in half the time! I have so much respect for them and the Sherpa community.
The trek was long and had a lot climbing and descents. Nurbu paced us at a slow walk to prevent us getting altitude sickness, he said that was the key to prevent it from happening. At one point, my hand started swelling and Kirsten said it was normal for this to happen due to the altitude and would eventually calm down. Something to do with my body wanting to retain water and salt and so it was important for me to remain hydrated. We trekked through forests that where hiding small farms and villages, suspension bridges that covered giant gorges which were ferrying across donkeys and cows (although they are called Jakari in Nepalese). Each village we passed through, everyone seemed to be happy and relaxed when we walked past them greeting us with ‘Namaste.’ I also couldn’t believe how quiet it was, almost peaceful.
Finally, after 5 hours of trekking, with the occasional break now and then we finally arrived at our accommodation for the night. The accommodation was not what I expected, it looked like some sort of giant Austrian Swiss chalet. It had red tiled sheeted roof and giant slate bricks for the exterior, on the inside however it was all made of timber and plywood. It was like we walked into a fake house. Either way it was good to get day one out of our system, we got an idea of what we were going to expect to see. Crossing long suspension bridges, experiencing Nepal traffic jams (which was just waiting for donkeys to cross over the bridge before we could, gorgeous steep valleys and glacier rivers. Excited for things to come.
Final Thoughts
Looking back on Day 3 of our trek to Everest Base Camp, I can’t help but reflect on the sheer adventure and awe of it all. From the nerve-wracking flight to Lukla to the quiet, peaceful trek through the Nepali villages, it’s been an experience I’ll never forget. The journey is not without its challenges, but every moment, from the turbulence of the flight to the beauty of the mountains, was worth it.
If you're planning a similar adventure, here are a few tips that I learned to keep in mind:
Plan for Weather Delays in Lukla: Flights to Lukla are notoriously weather-dependent, and delays are common. Make sure you’re prepared for potentially long waits at the airport. Booking an early morning flight increases your chances of getting off the ground, but don’t be surprised if you find yourself hanging around the airport for hours.
Pack Light but Be Prepared: While porters will carry your gear, it’s important to pack smart and light. Porters in the region are incredible, carrying heavy loads across challenging terrain with ease, but you’ll still want to make sure your essentials—like extra layers, snacks, and a first aid kit—are within easy reach. We brought these buttery salt crackers en route and fair to say it became a household favourite for me on the trek.
Take. It. Slow.: One of the most important things I learned on Day 3 was the importance of pacing yourself. Altitude sickness is a real risk, and the key to avoiding it is to take slow, steady steps. Don’t rush, and make sure to stay hydrated as you climb. It might feel like you could walk faster, but your body will thank you if you take it easy.
Embrace the Culture and the Silence: The villages along the trail are quiet, peaceful, and full of warm greetings from locals. Take the time to say "Namaste" and enjoy the calmness of the trek. Also, learning about the Sherpa culture—especially the strength and resilience of the porters—is humbling. The respect for their work is something everyone should experience firsthand.
Expect the Unexpected: Whether it’s the unique accommodation that feels like a Swiss chalet or the incredible views from the plane, expect the unexpected. Nepal is full of surprises, and the more open you are to the quirks and challenges, the more enriching the journey will be.
Overall, Day 3 set the tone for the next part of the journey. From the flight to Lukla to the trek through the valleys and villages, every step is a reminder of the beauty and challenge of trekking in the Himalayas. There’s so much more to come, and I can’t wait to share with you what the rest of the trek has in store.
Weekly Podcast Episode Rec:
The High-Performance Podcast: Nims Purja: Make your dreams a reality
Nirmal ‘Nims’ Purja MBE became the fastest person ever to climb all the fourteen world’s highest mountains in 2019. The previous record for this achievement was just under 8 years, Nims achieved this in just 6 months. Nims delivered on his promise and what many claimed to be ‘impossible.’ Previously, Nims served in The Gurkhas for 6 years before passing Special Forces selection and joining the SBS (Special Boat Service) where he served for a further 10 years. A truly fascinating achievement and an awesome conversation of how perseverance and belief can lead to go on and do some incredible things.
Life/Travel/Running Hack
Download the Waitrose card app for free Cafe Nero Coffee. You can then walk into any Waitrose store (well most) and use your own refillable coffee cup to have a free coffee, and you don’t need to buy anything in the shop. Click Here for the link.
Something I’m pondering ‘Food for Thought.’
“The great thing, if one can, is to stop regarding all the unpleasant things as interruptions of one’s “own,” or “real” life. The truth is of course that what one calls the interruptions are precisely one’s real life.” C.S. Lewis
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It’s better to miss home than it is to miss out on the world.
